About La Boca

La Boca is a southern neighborhood of Buenos Aires, so called because it sits at the mouth (“boca” in Spanish) of the Riachuelo. For many years its port was the main port of the city, but at the end of the 19^th century it was replaced by Madero Port, specially prepared to receive ships with deep draft. During the great immigration period of the 19^th many Italian immigrants, mostly Genovese, settled down in the neighborhood and gave La Boca its current appearance (in fact, the name that La Boca neighbors and Boca Juniors fans currently give to themselves –“xeneixes”– means “Genovese” in that Italian dialect). The newcomers used to stay in conventillos, big houses with many rooms for rent (a room for each family) and an internal patio: the shared areas of conventillos helped to mix those different immigrant cultures, making possible the exchange and communication between them. Tango, lunfardo and the 20^th century popular culture of Buenos Aires would arise from the combination of that mixing and the previous cultural substratum.

               

 THE OLD BRIDGE OF LA BOCA

PATIO OF A CONVENTILLO

(BEGINNING OF 20th CENTURY)

 TYPICAL CONVENTILLO OF LA BOCA 
(WITH SHEETS OF METAL AS WALLS)

Quinquela Martín Biography

Benito Chinchella [hispanized Quinquela by himself] Martín (1890 - 1977) is known as el pintor de La Boca, because that neighborhood, its port and its people are the main themes of his work.

            Abandoned as a baby child by his biological family, at the age of seven he was adopted by Justina Molina and Manuel Chinchella, a Genovese immigrant from whom Benito took his last name and his first occupation: loading and unloading coal from the tied up ships in Vuelta de Rocha.       

            He started to paint intuitively in his childhood. Except for some lessons in a cultural institution, Benito hadn’t any formal education; his training was self-taught, and his lifetime inspiration, the port’s life. His technique demonstrates both the heterodoxy of his painting and his art conception: since 1918, almost his entire work was painted with a palette knife.     

            Despite the early success he achieved, Quinquela never left La Boca and made many donations to the neighborhood, among others, the current school-museum “Pedro de Mendoza” next to Caminito.

            Many years before his death, he prepared his own coffin, “because a man who has lived surrounded by colors can’t be buried in a plain box”. He lies in that water-coloured coffin in which top Quinquela had painted a sailing ship. 

 QUINQUELA'S HANDS

 "ACCIDENTE EN EL PUERTO" ("ACCIDENT IN THE PORT"). ETCHING

 "CREPÚSCULO" ("TWILIGHT"). OIL PAINTING